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+--- Thread: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin (/t-from-disc-to-drive-a-beginner-s-guide-to-preparing-your-media-for-jellyfin)
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - TheDreadPirate - 2024-05-05
When you say it still exists in the MKV, do you mean that the video is still there? I'm not familiar with the chapter editor. Perhaps what you did was remove the chapter marker and not the video in that chapter.
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - MrFusion - 2024-05-06
This is a great guide - I want to add that for Mac, Subler is a solid program for subtitles/track naming and some other nice metadata control.
I ripped all my BDs and DVDs more than 6 to 10 years ago, the same flow MakeMVK » HB »a Metadata massage to use in iTunes, and then moved to Plex, before I started just streaming. But I always planned to return and re-rip once storage options/quality/speed got better, so really helpful for a refresher.
The question I have is about Hardware Acceleration, as this is a newer idea for me. I'm seeing mixed commentary about HWA for encodes.
Im currently encoding a scene to do an AB test using your settings against Apple VideoToolbox H265, but am not confident on the change in Constant Quality from RF to CQ slider so will need to dial it in I guess, is there any insights on this?
Is a software encode more likely to get better quality?
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - bitmap - 2024-05-06
(2024-05-06, 07:52 AM)MrFusion Wrote: The question I have is about Hardware Acceleration, as this is a newer idea for me. I'm seeing mixed commentary about HWA for encodes.
Im currently encoding a scene to do an AB test using your settings against Apple VideoToolbox H265, but am not confident on the change in Constant Quality from RF to CQ slider so will need to dial it in I guess, is there any insights on this?
Is a software encode more likely to get better quality?
1. You're likely going to have to test for yourself and decide on your range of acceptable quality. If you want a starting point, RF ranges from 0-51 while CQ ranges from 1-100. Simple math will give you an exact answer, but ~CQ 36 might be a good place to start if you're aiming for RF 18 quality. I saw somebody recommend starting at CQ 65 and I nearly choked, but if you're okay with feces smeared on a wall where your media used to be, give it a try. I use ffmpeg and do a significant amount of AV1 encoding. The recommendation is 25-35 for SVT-AV1 with ffmpeg and that's just giving up way too much quality most of the time -- I generally go with Preset 3 (analagous to "slower" for non-AV1 encoders) and a CRF of 20-23 depending on how much I care about that media. Even leaving everything at 20 and using film grain synthesis (without denoising), my encodes are generally 2-6 GB from a remux and look great.
Most of my encoding, however, is done with AV1_QSV, which is hardware-accelerated. My CRF ("global_quality") range on this tends to be 18-23, depending on content. There's no fancy film grain synth or even a decent de-noising filter IMO, so these encodes tend to be larger and occasionally struggle with certain media. Which brings me to your second question.
2. Yes. Software encoding will generally give you a better result and, currently, the best AV1 encoder out there does not support QSV acceleration. I believe they're beginning to support (or at least I saw a pull request for) NVIDIA HWA encoding. In general, software > Intel > NVIDIA >>>>> AMD in terms of quality. Also, hardware-accelerated encoding will result in larger files of lesser quality much of the time. You can account for this by lowering your CRF/CQ/GQ/etc... However, you'll almost always end up with larger encodes for the same quality as a software encode.
Now that I've said a lot of bad things about hardware encoding, let me tell you the reason a lot of people, myself included, are on the bandwagon. Intel leads the pack, as I'd say most of my encodes are indistinguishable from a good SVT-AV1 encode (file size aside). But on my machine, with an i7-13700k, an SVT-AV1 encode with the options listed above generally runs between 0.2-0.5x (sometimes a little bit quicker, content dependent). That's between two and five times as long as the media to encode. And that's FAST compared to what it used to be even a year ago. My A380? I just ran through 6 1080p, 3 4K HDR, and 3 4K SDR->HD encodes in about three hours. I get between 2-12x speeds with the A380 under decent conditions. Even with tonemapping (which I have dipped my toes in) I have rarely dipped below 1.25x.
Lots of folks set up their machines incorrectly, botch their installs, or don't follow directions. I run everything in docker-compose and Intel HWA with Jellyfin or ffmpeg is a breeze (unless there are bugs in the software you want to use). So...are you encoding a LOT of media? Are you serving several clients simultaneously with media that might require transcoding? If so, HWA is absolutely the way to go. If you're not sure on either question, I'd think and play a bit more before investing. An Arc A380 (or even the 310) is fairly inexpensive in a hobby that's is an endless money pit.
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - MrFusion - 2024-05-06
Great information, many thanks
(2024-05-06, 08:27 AM)bitmap Wrote: I saw somebody recommend starting at CQ 65 and I nearly choked, but if you're okay with feces smeared on a wall where your media used to be, give it a try.
I think this is where I was seeing mixed messages about QC vs RF. I started at about 30 on a test scene (BTTF Marty showing the Doc the Delorean. High contrast dark scene with fog, moonlight, a torch, and it looked terrible. Chessboard Terrible.
I actually ended up at QC60 before it looked serviceable to me. Comparing the encodes, I couldn't see a difference in the test. File size was about the same and was less than my past H264 encode settings.
It was 144fps vs 1.07fps for the encode, so I don't know if the speed is causing bias to think the acceleration looks great.
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - 2adave_27478 - 2024-05-25
I have to admit everyone is helpful and I am really enjoying learning this program!
Thanks~! I might even donate!
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - 2adave_27478 - 2024-05-25
On a blu-ray Into Great Silence disk 2, there is a special feature called "gallery" which looks like just some still shots(probably JPG or png)
I can see how to extract those for viewing. Any advice?
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - Perseverant - 2024-08-08
(2024-05-25, 03:36 PM)2adave_27478 Wrote: On a blu-ray Into Great Silence disk 2, there is a special feature called "gallery" which looks like just some still shots(probably JPG or png)Late reply, I know, but hope this helps:
I can see how to extract those for viewing. Any advice?
I can't speak to your specific circumstance, but I can tell you I've run into a lot of galleries over the years and they're almost always a bit odd. They're being stored in some way where they play fine on the disc using your remote to advance, but when they're ripped with MakeMKV, they'll often play at an insane rate, or the first few images will display slowly, then you'll hit the end of the file and 100 images will zip by at an incredible pace.
Sometimes, the galleries are just not salvageable, but I've often had success by throwing the gallery clip into MKVtoolnix, going to the "Default duration/FPS" box, and entering "0.25" without the quotes. This will set the framerate to 0.25 seconds, which, for most of these way-too-fast galleries tends to display each image for 3-5 seconds. Note that you should change the framerate AFTER encoding into your final video format. So, you might want to re-encode it from x264 to x265, then use MKVtoolnix to alter the FPS of the x265 file (the correct way). If you altered the FPS, then re-encoded the 0.25FPS file from x264 to x265, it will likely break the clip.
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - wenzelja - 2024-11-15
Can you please expand on the use of MKVToolNix. you seemed to have glossed over the steps of actually using it. I downloaded it, but couldn't figure out how to use it. I took a movie and "disabled" the subtitles and clicked "start multiplexing". It ran through but the size of this new file was not reduced at all and the subtitles were still present, so I clearly did not remove them. I don't use subtitles and I could definitely do without the extraneous language audio tracks in the mkv, so I could use better instructions on how to do this.
Also, I will eventually rip my LOTR and Hobbit Extended Editions and would like to know how to merge the two disc rips into a single .mkv file.
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - TheDreadPirate - 2024-11-15
(2024-11-15, 01:40 PM)wenzelja Wrote: Can you please expand on the use of MKVToolNix. you seemed to have glossed over the steps of actually using it. I downloaded it, but couldn't figure out how to use it. I took a movie and "disabled" the subtitles and clicked "start multiplexing". It ran through but the size of this new file was not reduced at all and the subtitles were still present, so I clearly did not remove them. I don't use subtitles and I could definitely do without the extraneous language audio tracks in the mkv, so I could use better instructions on how to do this.
Also, I will eventually rip my LOTR and Hobbit Extended Editions and would like to know how to merge the two disc rips into a single .mkv file.
https://emby.media/community/index.php?/topic/111439-how-to-merge-a-2-part-mkv-movie/
RE: From Disc to Drive: A Beginner's Guide to Preparing Your Media for Jellyfin - wenzelja - 2024-11-15
@TDP Thank you for the appending walkthrough.
Now I just need a walkthrough on the other common uses of MKVToolNix.